Louise Gray's collections are reliable. Reliable in the sense that they are predictably eccentric and perfectly encapsulate the essence of London Fashion Week- an eclectic hodgepodge of design chaperoned by a profound sense of natural style. Sponsored by COTTON USA, Louise Gray AW12 took inspiration from Blondie Jim Dine and Sarah Lucas.

Gray demonstrated restraint by only showing 23 looks. However, these 23 looks packed a punch. Each outfit was a clash of concepts, colours and silhouettes.  As with each piece itself, the outfits had depth and gave more with every glance. Shirts and tea-dresses or sequined leggings with tunics were worn with patent boots. Decorated with zigzags and barcode, the knee high boots had something of the Go-Go dancer verve. The collection's reference points veered from the 80s - very strong in The Blitz style hairdos and New Romantic make-up to Fernand Leger. The clothing was club-ready and in Nu-Rave worthy colours.

Gray's Autumn Winter collection showed maturity - it was more commercial and far more wearable than previous seasons. Gone are the chaotic ribbons and plastic threads, replaced, now, with sellable outerwear and separates. Skirts, leggings and trousers were paired with tunic tops, knitwear and shirts. However, as ever, Gray has an innate understanding of the richness and depth provided by layering. The commerciality of this collection didn't detract from the perfect combination of clashing prints and high-octane colours. Beaded bra tops and graphic graffiti and QR code prints were neon bright. Gray has taken a sure-footed step with inventive design remaining her cynosure but it's a collection that will sell.  

Words by Lucy Morris

Photos: Style.com